![]() ![]() It's important to choose the one that you think will work the best for you. Some orient themselves differently on the wall. Some have small ridges that add friction into the system. Each one has different features and is made of different materials. There are a multitude of belay devices on the market. Even though it seems like the device might be holding the entire weight of the climber it is still important that you always have your hand on the brake strand of the rope when belaying. When the GRIGRI is weighted, friction locks up the cam and pinches the brake strand of the rope. This is a fully assisted auto-locking belay device with a moving cam. A good example of this is the GRIGRI from Petzl. The last style is the auto-locking belay device. These are often lightweight and relatively inexpensive. ![]() The shape of these devices is designed in such a way that when placed under weight they lock the rope and can then released by tilting the device upwards. These include the Mammut Smart, the Edelrid Jul 2, and the Edelrid Megajul. This style of belay device works on the same friction principles as the standard tuber but incorporates some form of assisted locking feature. If you're going to be rappelling you'll want a device that has two tubes, one for either strand of the rope so that you can rappel safely. These are utilized during multi-pitch climbs. These devices are going to have an extra loop on either side so that you can hang the device from the wall and belay in guide mode. This includes belay devices like the ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. One step up, in this same category, are devices that can be configured for guide mode. These are generally the most affordable belay devices and start at around $18.00. They do a great job assisting by adding friction into the system that allows you to safely catch and lower your climber. The second hole is utilized while rappelling. ![]() These devices are typically going to have two holes, although you'll only use one when belaying a lead climber on top rope. ![]() Once the first person down has noted friction problems, they should provide the support of a "fireman's belay" to subsequent party members.SHOP BELAY DEVICES How to choose the belay device that's right for you.īelay devices are necessary for all styles of rock climbing, but the type of belay device that you need is going to differ depending on where you're climbing and the type of climbing that you're doing, be it in the gym, outdoors, or multi-pitch.īelay devices can basically be broken down into three major categories.Ī standard tuber device which has one or two holes for the rope to run through, an assisted locking tuber which has an integrated mechanism to create friction on the rope and assist in the breaking, and a fully assisted locking device that's going to have some variation of moving cam, that's friction based, and will help lock up the rope.Ī standard tuber device is going to be something like your basic ATC from Black Diamond or the Wild Country Pro Light. Or you can take a half-turn of the break strand around your thigh, but this is more painful and more awkward as well. You can pass the break strand around behind your back and so essentially add a waist belay to the process of creating rappel friction. Of course, there are also some more primitive ways to increase friction during the rappel. If the prussik is on the harness belay loop, it won't interfere with the rigging steps. A disadvantage is that it can be hard to rig this if your backup prussik is mounted low down on the leg loop (where it shouldn't be anyway with the extended device method). This will give lots more friction.Īn advantage of the mid-rappel installation is you can begin the rappel without extra friction, benefiting from the rope weight, and later increase the friction substantially when there is less of an assist from rope weight. Finally, with an extended device, you can (if necessary in mid-rappel) increase friction substantially with the following trick requiring two free carabiners:Ĭlip Carabiner #1 to the tether loop that holds your belay device, and clip Carabiner #2 to your harness belay loop.Ĭlip the brake strand through Carabiner #2 and then up to and through Carabiner #1 (and then of course back down to your brake hand). Rapping with an extended device also makes it more comfortable to use both hands for braking. Don't know if you do this already, but extending your device (rather than clipping it directly to the harness belay loop) gives you extra friction, because you get closer to a 180 degree bend in the brake strand as it exits the device. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |